Perms Are Coming Back—but Getting a Modern

If you blinked and missed the moment when perms quietly slid from ’80s party-list staple to a 2020s beauty-room staple, you’re not alone. The perm is resurging — but it isn’t the same stiff, helmet-headed curl of decades past. Today’s perms are softer, smarter, and designed to work with modern cuts, color, and hair care. Below I’ll unpack why perms are back, what “modern perms” actually mean, who they suit, how they’re done now, and how to style and care for your new texture so it looks intentional, not retro costume-y.

Why perms are trending again

Several forces pushed the perm back onto salon menus:

Nostalgia and fashion cycles. The fashion world has been digging deep into the 1980s and ’90s for inspiration; hair is no exception. Runways, celebrity looks, and editorial shoots have all resurrected voluminous, textured hair as a desirable aesthetic. Celebrity and editorial visibility help accelerate adoption.
Social media & viral looks. TikTok and Instagram are full of short-form hair transformations and “get the look” videos. A viral haircut or celeb snapshot can send demand skyrocketing overnight — and perms offer a relatively long-lasting curl that plays well on camera.
A move toward texture and low-effort style. Modern beauty trends favor hair that looks lived-in and textured rather than overly polished. Perms deliver semi-permanent texture that reduces daily styling time, something plenty of busy people (and trendsetters) love.
More men are asking for them. It’s not only women: a noticeable uptick in men getting perms — from subtle waves to tighter “broccoli” or spiral looks — has been covered by mainstream press and salons reporting increased bookings. That male-led demand has helped normalize the style for a wider audience.

What “modern perm” actually means

The big difference: modern perms are customized texture services, not one-size-fits-all chemical cookie cutters. Here’s how they differ from classic perms:

Softer, more natural shapes. Modern perms focus on loose body waves, beachy bends, or subtle volume rather than the uniform spirals of the past. Think touchable movement, not helmet hair.
More technique variety. Stylists use a range of rods, placements, and processing methods (including acids and digital/thermal perm options) to build texture that suits your length and face shape. Digital or “body wave” perms can give looser, more natural bends; spiral and pin perms yield more defined curls.
Health-conscious formulas and aftercare. Modern perm solutions and neutralizers have evolved, and stylists increasingly consider hair porosity, prior color work, and integrity before perming. The result: less breakage, fewer unpleasant surprises, and better longevity when done correctly.

Who should consider a modern perm (and who should not)

Perms aren’t a one-size-fits-all shortcut. Consider these guidelines:

Great candidates: People with fine or straight hair who want long-lasting volume or texture; those looking to cut down daily styling time; wearers of blunt cuts who want movement; people seeking a dramatic textural change for months at a time.
Be cautious if: Your hair is severely damaged, very porous from repeated bleaching, or you have active scalp issues. Chemical texturizing stresses hair — a careful consult and sometimes a preparatory strengthening regimen are essential. InStyle and other pros advise an in-person perm consultation to assess hair health and choose the right technique.
Men and perms: Shorter male cuts can be permed for volume on top, while longer styles can get full curls or waves. Many barbers and stylists now offer variations aimed at men; it’s no longer an exclusively “women’s” service.

Modern perm types you’ll encounter

A quick glossary of common modern options:

Body wave / loose-perm: Gentle S-shaped waves that add volume without tight curls — great for a beachy, lived-in look
Digital perm: Uses heat-controlled rods for softer, defined waves that often look more like blown-out curls; ideal for those who want a predictable curl pattern.
Spiral perm: Tighter, spiral-shaped curls that add strong bounce — works best on longer hair.
Stacked/partial perms: Perming only the mid-lengths and ends, or only the top layer, to add targeted texture while keeping the overall shape controlled.

How a modern perm appointment usually goes

Consultation (non-negotiable). Bring photos of the texture you want, and be ready to discuss your color history and daily routine. A good stylist will assess hair health and recommend the exact technique.
Prep & protection. If hair is fragile, the stylist may suggest a bond-builder treatment beforehand or delay perming until hair is healthier.
Selection of rods & solution. The stylist picks rod size/placement and the appropriate chemical system. Digital perms use heat, whereas classic perms do not.
Processing & neutralizing. Timing is critical — the stylist watches so the curl forms without over-processing.
Cut & style. Many modern perms include a final dry-cut or shape while the hair is textured so the final silhouette reads modern and wearable.

Styling and maintenance: make it last and look modern

A perm isn’t “set it and forget it.” With the right routine, you’ll keep the look fresh and healthy:

Wait before washing. Most stylists recommend waiting 48–72 hours after the perm before the first wash to let the curls set. (Follow your stylist’s exact timing.)
Use gentle, pH-balanced shampoo and conditioner. Sulfate-free formulas preserve curl and color.
Protein + moisture balance. Alternate a protein-rich treatment and a deep-conditioning mask based on your stylist’s recommendation — perms benefit from hair that’s both strong and hydrated.
Low-heat styling only. When you do heat-style, use a heat protectant and keep temperatures moderate. For many modern perms, finger-drying and light cream-based curl creams produce the best, most natural results.
Regular trims. Keep ends healthy and the shape intentional with trims every 8–12 weeks.
Refresh options. “Top-up” perms are sometimes possible for root-touch texture but proceed cautiously — repeated chemical trauma requires spacing and professional oversight.

Styling ideas to make a perm feel modern (not retro)

Curtain bangs + soft perm: Pair loose waves with long curtain bangs for a face-framing, editorial look.
Textured bob or lob: Shorter cuts work beautifully with body-perm waves for volume and movement — a perm can transform a blunt bob into a texturized, modern silhouette.
Color harmony: Soft balayage or face-framing highlights can enhance curl definition and add dimension; avoid overlapping fresh bleach with perm chemicals unless your stylist explicitly approves.
Masculine takes: For men, subtle top perms with faded or tapered sides create a contemporary contrast embraced by many barbers and stylists.

Cost, longevity, and realistic expectations

How long it lasts: Expect a perm to commonly last several months (many stylists cite 3–6 months) before the curl relaxes significantly; growth changes the shape, not the curl itself.
rice range: Prices vary by salon, region, hair length, and technique. Expect more for digital perms or complex multi-step services. The Guardian and salon reports note varied pricing and a spike in demand that’s pushed some salons to adjust services and availability.

Final checklist before you perm

Bring clear photos of the texture you want.
Be honest about previous color/bleach treatments and at-home damage.
Ask about bond-building pre-treatments and whether your stylist recommends a test strand.
Discuss maintenance: which products to buy, how often to deep-condition, and how to refresh the shape.
Understand the timeline: how long the appointment takes and how long the result typically lasts.

The bottom line

Perms are back — but they’ve been remixed for contemporary tastes. Today’s perm is less of a hair-event and more of a precision texturizing service: softer shapes, smarter chemistry, and a focus on hair health. When performed by a skilled stylist and paired with proper aftercare, a modern perm gives lasting texture and style while cutting down on daily effort. If you want volume, natural waves, or a bold change in texture, a modern perm might be the refresh your look needs — provided you go in informed and with realistic expectations.